The shy black grouse is said to have one eye on each feather, that's how well it sees. Its rolling and hissing mating sounds can be heard from afar. Before dawn, you climb up to the tree line with the ranger and listen to the fascinating mating sounds as the cocks court the females. In order not to disturb the courtship display, we do not get closer than about 300 meters. After the morning stalk, we stop off at Villa Sonnwend National Park Lodge and fortify ourselves with a hearty breakfast.